The Fabric Of Our Lives
Well hello! Thank you for joining me today. You know I have such fond memories of going to the fabric store with my mom when I was little - seeing all the giant bolts of fabrics in different colors and textures. We would typically go to find fabrics for Halloween costumes or doll clothes, but most fabric stores have a special section dedicated to upholstery fabric for furniture. I was never drawn to these bolts as a child - their heavy hand and earth colors never seemed as interesting as the jewel toned satins that I would run to like a kid in a candy store. But all of the fabrics felt mysterious to me. What were they made out of?Who was creating them? What would you use one for as opposed to another? Now, since I've been working as an interior designer for the better part of two decades, the mystery is pretty much gone. Fibers in fabrics are just a part of my day-to-day life, but I often have insights and recommendations that I feel really passionately about and I want to shout them from the rooftops. So, welcome to my rooftop.
When you go to pick out your next new sofa or armchair, you may be given the option to select from a variety of fabrics. In a lot of instances you may be given the choice between two colors but some companies will give you more variety and options and it can help to really understand the differences between different types of fabrics aside from just the way they look. After al,l we are sitting on these objects for long periods of our lives, so it can help to really understand what it is that's underneath us.
But first, let’s talk about the Color of the Week. If you’re a Jeopardy fan, you may be aware that we are in midst of another fire streak of a player who has currently won over one million dollars over the span. of 30 games. Amy Schneider is amongst the top four all time winners of the game, and if you haven’t watched Amy play yet, I would highly recommend it. Her breath of knowledge is incredible; from pop culture to detailed world history and geography, it is players like Amy that make the game really fun to watch. In honor of her incredible winning streak, the Color of the Week is Jeopardy Blue - Pantone 2935 U. This classic cobalt color can be peppered into your home with a collection of vintage blue glassware, vases, and pottery. This color can also be used as chalk paint to refinish furniture; like a collection of mismatched vintage wood dining chairs - painting them all cobalt blue helps them act as a set and bring a bite sized burst of flavor into any room. Annie Sloan Napoleonic Blue is a great option. Or you can simply tune into Jeopardy and let the blue glow of the show illuminate your home.
This episode is brought to you by Soft Landing Studio. If you enjoy this podcast and want to take your space to the next level, you can select from a variety of one-on-one virtual consultations about your specific home, office, or retail interior design project. Whether you want a quick brainstorming session, a series of regular check-ins during your renovation, or to work with my full interior design services; you’ll get amazing design ideas, life changing solutions to problems you’d never thought you could resolve, and a space you feel proud to call your own. And for the holiday season, you can now purchase gift certificates for the 45 minute Creative Consultation. This is the perfect gift for the design lover or brand new home owner in your life. Go to www.softlandingstudio.com to schedule your experience now. And while you’re there, don’t forget to download the absolutely free Guide to Getting Started. This fun-filled PDF quiz will orient you at the very beginning of your interior design journey. If you know you aren’t 100% happy in your space, but you don’t know what to do about it, this guide is for you. You will be directed towards big idea solutions, so you’ll know what to do, and most importantly, what not to do. Visit www.softlandingstudio.com for you free copy today.
One of the most important things to understand about fabrics is that there are two defining categories for any fabric, and these that often get mixed up. Every fabric has a structure, a construction method, meaning the way its thread are woven together. Every fabric also has a fiber content, meaning the material that makes up the individual threads. While that may seem straight forward enough, these two ideas are constantly being confused. Take for instance, fan favorite - velvet. Velvet is a construction method. Yarns are woven together and create tufts, or loops, of thread, which are then cut open to create the fuzzy texture we all love. Velvet can be made from cotton, silk, or any number of synthetic yarns like nylon or acrylic. It’s not uncommon for velvet to be confused as its own singular type of fabric, that velvet is the fiber. But it’s not - and this important because the type of fiber is a big part of what determines the quality, durability, and the cost. Silk velvet and acrylic velvet and not going to look, feel or hold up the same.
So let’s do a run down of what is considered a fiber - these either natural or synthetic materials that comprise the threads of the fabric.
Natural fibers include:
Linen - made from flax seed
Wool - a sheep’ fleece
Silk - the excretion of silk worms
Hemp - plant based
Cotton - plant based
Synthetic fibers include:
Polyester
Acrylic
Nylon
Olefin
Vinyl
Silicone
So, all of these fibers have different qualities, different characteristics, pros, and cons. The main benefit to working with any natural fiber is there is a sense of luxury associated with many of these, especially silk or linen. These natural fibers are also generally more sustainable, as they are biodegradable and their harvesting process has a smaller carbon footprint than any synthetic counterparts. I say generally, but it’s important to note the sustainability of fibers is a complex topic. There’s a really great breakdown of kind of good fabrics vs bad fabrics and why each one falls into either category on the website called Sustain Your Style, and I am linking that in the show notes however, one of the best things to look for in fabric fibers is recycled content - whether that’s recycled cotton, nylon, or fibers made for true textile waste. At this point in humanity’s timeline there is so many fibers and textiles being discarded, it’s really just irresponsible not to be including recycled content in a fabric. It can also be helpful to look for fabrics that have been certified by one of the many third party textile verification standards like Greenguard or Oekotex.
The main benefit to working with synthetic fibers is their durability, affordability, and their malleability when in comes to taking on dyes - the brightest colored fabrics are almost always, synthetic. Their downfall usually lands in the sustainability category, and if they are low quality, their durability will not be a strength, which is a very good reason to think of any upholstered item in your home as an investment. Cheap fabrics will disappoint every time, and that’s not to say you have spend a fortune on your loveseat, and synthetic fibers are generally less expensive than natural fibers to begin with, but it’s important to know that in the world of cost cutting and budgeting, fabric isn’t the best place to skimp.
It’s more common than not to see multiple fiber blends in fabric. So that means mixing cotton and polyester, wool and acrylic, linen and cotton, and so on. Using fiber blends is helpful in a few ways. Mainly, it means you can take more luxurious and costly fibers like silk and linen, and combined them with more cost-effective, often synthetic, fibers. This makes the piece of fabric more affordable but it still embodies the properties of the luxurious fiber. The other reason blends can be helpful is when the two or more fibers combined help reinforce one another. Natural fibers like linen and wool are often combined with synthetic fibers to help prevent wrinkling, sun fading, and general cleanability. The wrong blend pairing can lead to the dreaded experience of pilling. Piling is the term for loose fibers that detached from the original thread and twist around themselves, leaving the appearance of tiny flex or pills over the surface of a fabric. This is much more common in fast fashion, but it does show up from time to time on upholstered furniture. For instance, if wool and polyester are blended, the friction between the two will cause the gentler fibers of the wool to shed and coil up - causing the dreaded pill. In general, synthetic fibers cause pilling, and natural fibers are less likely to do so. However piling can happen in almost any instance a certain amount of heavy use. The other factor in pilling is our next category for fabrics in general, which is construction.
Fabric construction refers to the weaving pattern, density, and finishing of a fabric. This is all about how the fibers thread are woven together. Common construction types include:
Velvet
Boucle
Herringbone
Tweed
Chenille
Damask
Felt
All of these weaving methods vary in their complexity. Many are variations of the common twill weave, which is the same structure that is used to make denim. The construction of a fabric effects the overall end look and feel of the fabric, but it also plays a huge role in the quality of the fabric. The density of a weave will make it strong and durable. But another factor that really comes into play with durability is the finishing of a fabric and this includes any coatings that may be put on top of a fabric, and any backings attached behind the fabric. Fabrics that are finished to a level that is intended to withstand high wear and even moisture are referred to as performance fabrics. One of the most common examples of this on the market is a company called Sunbrella. They manufacture coated and backed fabrics that are suitable for outdoor use, but are soft and visually sophisticated enough to work in high traffic indoor areas as well. Many manufacturers offer their own version of performance fabrics, names you might see include Cryton, Nanotex, or Alta. These finishings are not particularly noticeable to the eye, but they provide a barrier of protection against moisture and liquids, which makes them great for eating spaces, pets, kids, and even us messy adults.
Now all this said, these are a lot of technical components to keep track of, and honestly it’s just the tip of the iceberg - there are other considerations like flame resistivity, dye method, pattern repeat, bolt width, and compatibility with any given shape of furniture. To make our lives easier, what many designers look for in fabrics to insure durability is a testing system called the “double rub.” This is a machine testing method that simulates the wear of someone sitting down and getting back up. In commercial interior design, I stay away from using fabrics that are under 100,000 double rubs, meaning someone can sit down and stand up on the fabric 100,000 times before even the slightest bit of wear is detectable. In a home environment, it’s okay to go as low as 15,000; but anything under that should only be used for curtains or decorative accessories that will not be handled often. Most retailers are not providing this type of testing information, and we have to rely on antidotal rankings like “suitable for heavy use,” but you can always ask the company before you commit to buying. Interior designers have access to thousands of trade-only fabrics and know the qualifications and testing numbers to look for like the back of their hands. Most importantly, interior designers always obtain small and even sometimes large samples of the fabrics they intend to use on any given piece. So they are very familiar with the feel, the texture, the exact color ,and what that color looks like under different lights, how fabrics look together when combined - all before anything is ordered. They can even work with companies to create custom prints, patterns, and colorways.
Do you have a favorite fiber or fabric construction method? What are most of the fabrics in your home made out of? Have you ever order a fabric sample before? A lot more retail stores are offering them to consumers, and I would 100% encourage you to get them if you are thinking about buying a new chair, sofa, or ottoman. That way, you’ll know what you’re getting - and your space will be as beautiful as it is in your mind. And I just wanted to add, you are awesome. I’ll talk to you in the next episode.
